A charming mid-century jewel from Beverly Hills legend William Ruser, this figural teddy bear brooch captures the whimsical spirit that made his work so beloved by Hollywood. The textured 14k yellow-gold bear sits atop a lustrous American freshwater pearl “cloud,” its bow-tied neck and twinkling sapphire eyes rendered with Ruser’s playful precision.
Ruser famously revived baroque freshwater pearls in the 1940s–50s, transforming their organic shapes into imaginative scenes and characters—exactly the magic at play in this delightful bear. Signed and beautifully preserved, it’s a collectible slice of Californian glamour with irresistible personality.
Designer: William Ruser
Metal: 14k yellow gold (stamped)
Gemstones: Two blue sapphires (eyes); American freshwater pearl base
Size: Approx. 31.8 × 16 mm
Closure: Hinged pin with safety clasp
Era: Circa 1940s–1950s
Signature: Ruser 14K
Condition: Excellent
About the Designer
William Ruser (American, 1908–1994) began his jewelry career at the age of 17, apprenticing with Howard Hoeffer in Atlantic City. During World War II he paused his jewelry career and served in the Army Air Corps. Ruser returned to California and, in 1947, opened his own jewelry salon on Rodeo Drive with his wife Pauline. Before the war, he crossed paths with a traveling button salesman from Mississippi who presented him with several shoeboxes filled with baroque pearls. He purchased all of them and later used them to inspire the designs that would cement his place as one of the most respected American mid-century jewelers. In the unique shapes of the pearls, he saw birds, cherubs, various animals, and playful figures. He transformed them into jewelry that radiated wit and charm and set him apart from his contemporaries. At the time, baroque pearls had not had any type of popularity since the Art Deco period. Conveniently located in Beverly Hills, his store’s location and whimsical creations soon captivated the attention of film stars like Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Lana Turner, Loretta Young, and Shirley Temple. His designs even appeared on the big screen most notably by Barbara Stanwyck in the 1948 suspense thriller, Sorry, Wrong Number. Here Stanwyck wears her own three gardenia necklace and matching earrings, designed by Ruser.
Among Ruser’s most iconic designs are his “Day of the Week” brooches, inspired by the old English nursery rhyme that attributes qualities to children born on each day. With a keen sense of storytelling, he translated those lines into miniature golden figures brought to life with pearls and gems: "Monday’s child" might gaze into a mirror, "Wednesday’s child" sits forlornly with head in hands, and "Friday’s child" plays joyfully with a puppy. Each brooch is both a jewel and a portrait, capturing a mood with theatrical detail. These pieces exemplify Ruser’s unique aesthetic—imbued with narrative, humor, and sentiment—and remain highly collectible today as symbols of his ability to transform poetry and pearls into wearable art. Due to the uniqueness of the pearls, there are no two brooches alike.
